I have had a couple of complaints about my silence lately. The easy cop-out would be to say that I went to Burma from Chaing Mai (top of this map
) and the evil fascists
who run that country don't allow Internet use there. In fact my Swedish friend Mia was waiting for me in the middle of Rangoon. I however was in bed in Chaing Mai with a terrible case of backache. It hasn't really gone away but I've had lots of vigorous Thai massages including a miost violent 2 hour one from a blind man in Phisanalouk and a 55 kilo woman called Oi! walking on my back in Phuket. Anyway, really very little to report from my last two weeks in Thailand. One week doing not much but rest in Chaing Mai, a couple of days sight-seeeing at the ancient capitals of Soukathai and Ayuttaya
(just north of Bangkok in the middle of this map
), four days on the beach in Phuket and now I'm back in Singapore on my way to Australia. Ayuttaya was the only really impressive stop. It has several interesting temple complexes
, and some slightly newer monuments
--all a 40 cent train ride north of Bangkok. It was Thailand's capital from roughly 1300 to 1750 when the Burmese moved in and sacked it. The next King moved the capital to the now sprawling mess of Bangkok, knowing that no one in their right mind would want to capture it! As this photo
shows Ayutthan Buddhists are now worshiping at the altar of east AND west.
The full set of temple photos from Phisanalouk, Soukathai and Ayuttaya is here
. My camera which has now started behaving very badly is hopefully being fixed in Singapore as I write this....more from Australia soon!
Christmas in Laos.
OK this may sound like the title to a new Disney movie starring Goldie Hawn and some computer generated chipmunks, but it's much worse. It's the true hideous story of how in Vang Vieng, Laos
, Lish Woodgate
survived an assasination attempt three times by the diabolically-intentioned Ann Larson
(OK two were by me) and then foolishly decided that due to her injuries she was unable to go on the next day's rafting trip (which resulted in Wildside
rafting keeping all her money!) Despite Ann's attempt to lure Lish into a deep dark cave and abandon her there, and then deliberately hold her under a capsized canoe, I rushed to save her (or more accurately capsized my canoe and banged hers setting it free and possibly stopped her drowning).
I did make up for it by capsizing her twice when I was driving! Well the second time we were merely resting (stuck of course) against the middle support of the bridge when Ann's accomplice in another boat attacked from the rear. A great time
was had by all (after all it was only a $7 day-out, somewhat cheaper than my normal rafting trips in California
). Lish got her revenge that night by slipping a Mickey Finn into the yogurt that Ann and I shared, resulting in a lot of giggling and great difficulty in finding our way home and/or getting out of bed the next day! All the Vang Vieng photos are here
As I metioned we were supposed to raft back to Ventiene as Lish had to go back to Thailand to try to win a bet with her friend Jane by accosting some innocent Englishman. But instead, as her hand was a little bust up, we took a minibus, which was a little less crowded than the public bus
we took up from Vientiene To Vang Vieng but cost a little more. Luckily for me, Gabrielle Howatson
showed up from London for a quick week's fun and games. Gabrielle not exactly being your backpacker type, I moved up a class (or actually about 3 classes) of accomodation and had a week's holiday from my holiday, so-to-speak.
After a day cycling around Vientiene (again! my third, but all the pics are here
including a bunch of stuff
I'd missed before, nearly seeing the Vietnamese President who was in town, and having a drink by the Mekong in this gorgeous sunset
) we travelled by London taxi (really!)
from Gab's highly expensive hotel to fly to Phonsovan in the Plain of Jars. From the airport there, after Gabrielle managed to negotiate us a driver, minibus and hotel room for about 20 times what I would have paid and about 15 times what they were worth, we set off for a quick trip to the Jars
. The Jars are 3,000 years old. They are somewhat the Laos equivalent to Stonehenge
(which I visited this past summer) other than the Jars are much smaller
, are in several different places and were moved by elephants, proving that the ancient Lao people were either less strong or cleverer than the Ancient Brits who dragged their stones by hand! Here's Gabrielle and me on a jar
. Of course no one knows why the jars are there other than to stand in
, but my favorite theory is that they were used for brewing beer.
After spending the night in a bloody cold $35 hotel that should have cost $3, but charged an extra $32 for the view
, the next day we went to hunt down a poppy field
. The invite to the poppies were cued when I remarked to the guide that I was surprised to see yet another new 4 X 4 pickup truck swing by us when Laos is supposed to be one of the world's poorest countries. He said "But they have a good business: Heroin!" After the leaves are pollinated by bees
and fall off, the poppies are scored
at night and the milk is collected, dried and either smoked as Opium in the village or moved to a secret site for processing. Not much of the wealth from the drug trade sticks in the village, another consequence of the evils of prohibition (for more see here
). In the village near the poppy fields were we saw a few old bombs
which having been dropped in their thousands in the War are now used as flowerpots
, house supports
. I thought that this photo of the Blonde and the Bombshells
would amuse some of you. All of the Plain of Jars photos are here
So our brief trip to Phonsovan ended with me throwing the ball to this Hmong girl (here with our guide)
as part of their ritual courtship ceremony. She dropped it--so either I'm chucked or have to marry her. The plane to Laung Prabang made it over some steep terrain for a daredevil landing. We spent 4 days including New Year's Eve hanging out in Wats
, checking out the Namthas
, looking over the town and Royal Palace
from the nearby hill, assaulting cats
, going up the river to the Pak Ou caves
that are full of discarded Buddhas
, and generally eating, drinking and living very, very well. New Years Eve dinner was $50 each, or about 10 times what I spend on a usual night out here!
Lang Prabang is a very beautiful and (for the moment) laid-back city right on the confluence of the Mekong
and another smaller river. But it is now on a tourist direct flight route going from BangKok to Soukathai to Ankor Wat. Consequently it's much more expensive than the rest of Laos or Thailand. I only hope that the same people don't find out about Hoi An in Vietnam. The full Lang Prabhang set
Gabrielle had to leave to return to a life of right-wing agitating and husband hunting (not necessarily in that order) at her new job
in London, and I downgraded from the lovely Hotel Souvaphon to the mush less delightful "Heritage" guesthouse. I actually went into a brief depressed funk after Gabrielle left--it was great having her (and Ann and Lish) around and not being a solo traveller, having to tell the same story again and again and make new friends ! So an interesting discovery is that I miss my friends!
I'm not sure how Gabrielle would have taken Northern Laos as there is no way to pay up and get better service there! I set off on a boat up the Nam Ou river
accompanied by three Swedes and a Dutch movie-directing couple
. One of the Swedes had a Laotian wife he'd met in 1990 (Several years before tourists were really allowed in!) ! She later defected to him via East Germany (about 10 minutes before it ceased to exist) and they've been married for 12 years now! He also drew the first guide to backpacking
in Laos. A couple of years later he bought a ticket to Laos from a travel agent on KhoSan Road in BangKok who tried to sell a copy of his own guide back to him!
The river trip
, with huge cliffs
and moody misty mountains
was very, very beautiful even if it was raining. We ended up in Nhon Kiew
, another tiny town where the locals (as in the rest of Asia) all watch TV oblivious
to their beautiful surroundings. Of course we managed to use the meagre electricity supply in town to good order as Djurgarden "Pride of Stockholm"
and Michiel (to his wife Sonja's)
chagrin set up a concert hall using only a broken boom box and chicken wire, and everyone had far too much Lao-lao.
I took a smelly truck down a fabulously beautiful road
via several more Hmong villages
, past lots of Hmong girls
playing with their balls (although the truck wouldnt slow down and all my pictures were taken hanging off the back!) The photos from the Nam Ou river and bus trip (plus the LaoLao evening) are here
I ended up in the boom town of Oudamxai
near the Chinese border. Although everyone had new 4x4s (this LandCruiser retails in the US for over $50,000, average annual income in Laos is $350--you work it out!)
and there were lots of mansions
(by Laos standards) being built, here wasn't much going on in Oudamxai other than thousands of people selling lottery tickets
. I ended hanging out with some French people in a disturbingly cold sauna (run by the Laos Red Cross), and then having a massage from a man who kept leaving to go off and do something else, until thankfully he was replaced by a woman who really knew what she was doing. $2.50 massages are one of the great pleasures of south east Asia, once you get used to the brutality factor and the lack of new age music! We then had a fabulous Lao barbeque, which was the best meal I had in Laos but made me the sickest I've been on the trip since India!
Next was a hair raising 4 hour bus journey, which when it wasnt broken down, went past yet more Hmong girls
looking for husbands. I survived using Immodium but during the journey I was not spared the conversation of an apalling drunk from Bristol. Thankfully he went on from my next stop, Laung Namtha. There the eco-treks into the jungle were full, and the rafting from our "friends" at Wildside wasn't going, but the mountain bike ride
around the villages
and up to a waterfall
was alot of fun--not least because I was dragged into a 65th (or was it 85th) birthday party
for this local grandee
in one village. There I was forced to eat some disgusting mix of pig entrails (look at the bowls
) and discuss the Laotian war of independence in some kind of broken French. Luckily after an hour or so I managed to escape by showing them that the sun was going down and would have to navigate home in the dark if I didn't leave immediately! So I got off with only drinking 5 shots of Lao-Lao (their disgusting and incredibly potent rice whisky). All the pictures from Oudamxai to Laung Namtha are here
After becoming best friends with every tourist in town, I ended up finding a Dutch/Romanian couple who wanted to take a boat to Thailand. Carel and Magdelana
proceeded to bicker their way down the Nam Tha river much to my amusement. The scenery was beautiful
but the slash and burn agriculture is decimating the forest. After a very quiet and uncomfortable night in the boatman's house (no electricity in this village!) being amusingly harrassed by his grandkids, but also being woken by Roosters at 4 am, we got back into the boat and had a sunny cruise down the rapid-filled river
until it joined the Mekong
. We plodded up to Houxai being overtaken by lots of very aptly named "speed" boats
, as apparently that's how the drivers cope with the noise. The short set of photos from the Nam Tha is here
My journey into Thailand at the border crossing was not exactly aided by my somehow throwing my back out as I got off the ferry and I had to get various other travellers to carry my stuff up the hill into Thailand! Luckily after a gorgeous sunset
over the Mekong there was a minibus leaving for Chang Mai almost straight away and I was levered on with the assistance of Vicoden. I'm now in Chang Mai, where I spent most of the first day searching for a hotel with a soft bed so that I could sleep off the worst of the back ache. Thank god for Vicoden! Ironic that the only opitates I've had in the Golden triangle are ones in pill form that I brought with me!
So now I'm sitting around Chang Mai. I seem to be avoiding all kinds of tourist actiuvity on offer here, although I might take a cooking class soon. I probably will not take a quick jaunt into Burma, although my Swedish friend (from India) Mia is there and is going to wait by a fountain to meet me (no Internet in Burma, eh!) on a certain day at a certain time. And of course I ran into Dave Russell (from Ireland via BangKok & San Francisco) who's last known comunication said he was on his way to Egypt!
So now you're all up to date again!
I'm one in a million! Blogger (which is the program that writes this journal) has 1 million users now....but you lot don't care about that! I have just escaped Laos and made it to Chang Mai in Thailand, and boy is that a re-emergence into civilization after where I've been lately! No photos yet, but I'll get some text and photos up while I'm here in the next few days. For those of you scoring at home I'm on my way to Tasmania (via Singapore & Sydney) on 30-31 January, then to New Zealand around Feb 25, then home to SF via Hawaii around early April. Anyone who wants to join me on my trek, especially in New Zealand where I hope to do some major league hiking and maybe some mountain biking, is very welcome!! More about Laos in the next day or so!
Sapa to Laungh Prabahn -- Well it seems so long ago that I left Vietnam that it's difficult to write too much about it. My trip to the beautiful hill country of Sapa was mostly a dud, as the weather closed in and there was 5 days of consecutive fog. Sapa is a hill town near the Chinese border in north-west Vietnam that used to be a center of ethnic minority culture, but is fast turning into a museum piece. This website
has a nice panaroma of several Sapa views in a link located about half way down. Meanwhile, everywhere you go you are chased by young girls and old ladies selling tribal wear. (It's actually pretty funny, especially as they can't come into the resturants and stand outside
trying to catch your eye. The little girls
speak great English -- I had great fun trying to stop about 20 of them mugging me for my blanket, which the old ladies from the Black Hmong tribe had sold me
using the one word sales line "Jolie! Jolie!". The other main tribes-people you see are the Red Tzao
in their very impressive headresses. There are also lots of little girls selling pillows
when you walk out to the villages. The villages themselves must be very beautiful when you can see them, as the rice terraces
go to the tops of the mountains and in some cases are only wide enough for one ox to plough
. I hung out with a few nice people
the poverty-stricken photoqrapher from Manhattan who wanted to pay good money to save this ferret
which she thought a hill-tribesman was selling for food (apparently it was going to be a pet!). Here are her photos
(not of Sapa but her professional B). There was a funny twosome of Jorge, an Argentinian who'd met a motorbike he didn't like in Hanoi and hobbled around asking his new best friend Singaporean Joon Kait (on left of Jorge here)
to fetch his walking sticks for him! How Jorge survived when Joo Kait went to China I don't know. The full Sapa set is here
I came back from Sapa on the same rather flash "Royal" overnight train as young Aussie adventurer Amanda
who I found will be at the Mountain Cattlemen's
festival that I'm going to in Tasmania in early February! We wondered around Hanoi past the Opera House
as the poopulus was waking up, exercising
and playing badminton
in the street at 5am......very bizzare! But they were also selling these nice flowers from the back of their bikes.
All my Hanoi photos are here
There was a litle drama at the airport when the Vietnamese Immigration people notice that I'd overstayed my visa by 5 days. But eventually they let me on the plane to Vientiene in Laos. You've already heard about my dinner with Lisa
and Ulf but not yet about my trip to the 4,000 Islands near Pax-Se in the south of Laos. I hung out there with a food broker from San Francisco called Lee
and a German couple called Maikka and Uli
, although Uli struggled to get a word in edgewise with Maikka
and me around! From PaxSe we went south to the 4,000 islands area. There the Mekong becomes 14 Kms wide and looks essentially like a lake with lots of tropical islands in it. We took a boat down to a couple of the southern islands, went to see a wide waterfall
and a tall(er) one
(allegedly the biggest in SE Asia) before we went to see the fast dissapearing Irrawaddy Dolphins. There are only 10-15 of these freshwater Dolphins left, but we saw a few, and if you squint hard you can see one in this photo
! My art photo of southern Laos river life is here
. The rest of the 4,000 Islands shots are here
On our way back to Pak-se we stopped off at Wat Phu Champassak
, an Ankor-era temple that was carelessly left over the border in Laos by the Khmer/Cambodians. It had some impressive features, not the least of which was great spring rolls at the on-site resturant, but also some impressive ruins
, some stylish "bas-reliefs
" (carvings to you) and this rather interesting "crocodile rock
"-All together now, LA, lalalala-La, La-la, La-la, La. la-la-la-la. All the Wat Phu Champassak photos are here
Lee and I took a bus trip
up to the Bolovean Plateau
in order to see the Tad Lo waterfall
, where we swam in a big pool under the waterfall, narrowly avoided death fording the river, went through a strange former military-like base with concrete houses, tennis courts and barracks with air-conditioning that wasn't on the map, and then to a wooden village that was about a mile and 2,000 years away from it. After trying unsuccessfully to ingratiate my self with these two Celtic cyclists (Peelee and Orla)
who were rather more interested in each other than Lee or me (and who can blame them), I nipped back to Pax-se, delayed only by the bus stopping to put an entire plantation of bannanas on the roof
. The Tad Lo photos are here
After a quick massage and dinner with the two Celtic cyclists (who have their own rather strange website/bulletin board
) who had turned up by then I got on the overnight bus to Vientiene, where I attempted (with some success) to meet the germans (Uli and Maikka), Lish and Anne from San Francisco and Lisa and her friends. After a crazy evening in which I managed to meet all of them not where I was supposed to at different times, it was finally Christmas day and time for all my presents--not that I got any! So in the next chapter you'll find out how we tried to kill Lish (otherwise known as going kayaking in Vang Vieng)